Drakensberg Diaries

Feb 16, Holidays!

Sat, 16 Feb 2008 20:17:50 GMT

We've been busy,chaps. Since the middle of November we've hardly had a night off. We've got a little place down in Ballito and when we saw a 10-day gap coming up we thought "yes! yes! yes!"

Jul 2, Well...

Mon, 02 Jul 2007 18:04:14 GMT

Emms loves it. George is not so keen. I agree with him. Let's get back to the fire.

Jun 13, Calling Maputo!

Wed, 13 Jun 2007 17:49:19 GMT

A Battlefields tour is usually a hard sell. Dunno why because it's great day out.

...What Our Guests Say... " Just to say thanks for the lovely stay - we really enjoyed ourselves. (We're a bit disappointed we missed the snow!). We have been doing a lot of promotion for the Drakensberg since we got back to Maputo so maybe there'll be some more visitors from Mozambique coming to sample the delights. Janette and Brian you are great hosts: we enjoyed all the home-cooked meals and the chats in the bar after a day's sightseeing. The open fire and George and Emma made it feel very homely and cosy. Give our regards to Ron - the battlefield tour was superb and I'll never forget sitting at Spionkop drinking champagne (allbeit non-alcoholic) thinking of Gen Redvers Buller drinking the real stuff while the battle raged. I'm determined to do the Kamberg caves on our next visit and the Zulu battlefields!

Take care & best regards. "
Leif & Ann Lindqvist

Jun 4, Winter!

Mon, 04 Jun 2007 16:29:57 GMT

5:45 and it's already dark! The Drakensberg Winter came hard and fast this year. Look at our Japanese Maple (I think it's a Japanese Maple?) It's normally deep shade under a verdant green canopy. But the Winter colours in the late afternoon sunshine are brilliant.

May 7, Fires and Red Wine!

Mon, 07 May 2007 16:20:15 GMT

Well, its that time of the year again. Weve had our first dusting of snow on the high Berg and freezing air is rolling in off the mountains. The Drakensberg winter is starting to grip. Big blue daytime skies and bright orange sunsets. The trees are colouring and the crackling, early-morning frost is leaching the green out of the lawn. Our Paradise Flycatchers have decamped for the Mozambique coast and the Lesser Striped Swallows are starting to congregate as they plan their trip to a warmer climate. Lucky them. The locals are expecting a bitterly cold winter. So snow is on the cards. Stoke the fires high and pass the red wine! Check our Winter Weekend Specials...

Dec 7, Support the Hlatikulu Crane Sanctuary

Thu, 07 Dec 2006 22:03:08 GMT

Did you know that there are only 236 Wattled Crane left? On the planet? Somebody should do something about this. Well, the folks at the Hlatikulu Crane and Wetland Sanctuary are doing just that. On a shoestring. On their own. Because theyre passionate. Located just south of Giant's Castle in the Central Drakensberg theyre busy restoring a large mountain wetland the Wattled Cranes natural habitat. Why restoring? Well Mondi forested the place with alien trees. And that destroyed the wetland and has a lot to do with why were down to number 236. Thanks to the Working for Water and Working for Wetlands programmes theyve now been compelled to remove them. Good. So with a little bit of help (well, quite a lot actually its a formidable undertaking), the wetland and a large chunk of Wattled Crane habitat, is coming back. In the nick of time, I hope. Bringing these magnificent creatures back from the verge of extinction is easier said than done. They only lay two eggs. And they only rear the first one that hatches. If youre going to intervene, youve got two hours to get that second egg in an incubator. So youve got to be wide-awake. There are more difficulties to come. If the bird is to be released into the wild, youve got to get dressed up in your crane suit to feed it. And theyre as aggressive as they are beautiful. A few other snippets. Only members of the Zulu Royal Family are allowed to sport its wing feathers. So the next time you see King Zwelithini or Mangosutho Buthelezi, in full regalia, on the TV, keep an eye out. Wattled Cranes (all cranes in fact) are extraordinarily long-lived 80 is not unusual. And they mate for life. The folks at the Hlatikulu Crane and Wetland Sanctuary run tours of their rescue, rehabilitation and captive-breeding centre. They dont charge but donations are obviously welcome. So when youre in the area pay them a visit their passion for what theyre doing is inspirational. This is a Drakensberg conservation effort that could use your support.

Nov 8, Drakensberg Walks For Old Men

Wed, 08 Nov 2006 08:08:54 GMT

We are delighted to be able to publish Charles ("Boeppens") Nepgens diary. He is one of the most charming old gentleman we have ever had the pleasure of meeting. We look forward to having him as a frequent visitor to Halls Country Houseand to the rest of this rather brilliant undertaking...

Drakensberg Walks For Old Men

Part 1. Why?

I have seen the Drakensberg, over the years, at every hour and in every season. Im 73 now and Ive taken spiritual comfort in this magnificent mountain range since I was 10. Its been an annual pilgrimage. So I think I have a few Drakensberg Secrets to pass on. When I was younger I did what they call the grand traverse twice not all in one go you understand its more than 200 kilometres and you just cant carry enough. Anyway, all the way from the Sentinel to Bushmans Nek, twice, with my beloved wife, Katherine, to whom this diary is dedicated. We were married for 42 years. She passed away 3 years ago. Just writing these words makes me ache anew. I miss her terribly. We shared so many exquisitely tender moments, completely alone, in so many beautiful places. I havent been back to the Berg since she died. But Im ready now. I need to revisit some of those precious places. Im only too aware that with every day that passes something seems to work less efficiently than it did the day before. So Id better get on with it. Shed have liked what Im trying to do. Which is what, exactly? Well, Im compiling this diary for my two sons, Dudley and Charles Junior, and for my five grandchildren. I want to leave behind a little something that might renew old memories or inspire them to treasure this Drakensberg mountain wilderness as I have. God knows, to my old eyes, they dont seem to realize how badly they need it. Im also writing it for me. Old men need to discipline themselves to do something constructive. I think Ill call it Drakensberg Walks for Old Men.

Oct 10, Visiting the Central Drakensberg? Don't miss the Hlatikulu Crane Sanctuary.

Tue, 10 Oct 2006 16:31:06 GMT

Visiting the Drakensberg? This conservation effort in the Central Drakensberg just south of Giant's Castle deserves your support.

Oct 5, Welcome Back, Chaps

Thu, 05 Oct 2006 18:31:14 GMT

Its a Paradise Flycatcher. We have a few pairs that spend the summer with us. When the Drakensberg winter starts to bite, theyre off to the Mozambique coast. But today theyre back. Delight.

Sep 20, Irreplaceable Treasures!

Wed, 20 Sep 2006 10:08:28 GMT

The Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park was declared a World Heritage Site in 2000. International recognition was achieved through its unique richness of biological diversity, its endemic and endangered species and its superlative natural beauty. Mostly though, it was declared a World Heritage Site for its masterpieces of human creative genius in the form of some 35 000 Bushman rock art images. Only a few artifacts and 35 000 paintings, slowly weathering away, remain to tell the story of the Bushman. The Drakensberg has the worlds richest treasure trove of stoneage rock art. With artistic skills honed by a tradition of total intimacy with their environment, the Bushman expressed their life experiences in art painted in the caves and overhangs in the mountains. They are drawings of infinite detail, sensitivity, movement and meaning.

Natural weathering of the exposed softer sandstone layers under the harder basalt created caves where Bushmen lived. Many of the paintings were drawn onto the relatively softer sandstone substrata and have deteriorated considerably over the years. The top three Drakensberg destinations to see Bushman rock painting are: Game Pass Shelter in the Kamberg, Main Cave at Giants Castle and Battle Cave at Injasuti. KZN Wildlife operates guided tours from all three of these locations daily. There are literally thousands of other places in the Drakensberg where you can view Bushman paintings. But if youre looking for destinations other than the "big three" mentioned above, then youre going to have to get your hiking boots on. Recent legislation has recognized this amazing outdoor art gallery, and that each painting is an irreplaceable treasure. As such they are protected. Please dont touch. Or Ill kill you.

Sep 12, Adrenalin? Big Time!

Tue, 12 Sep 2006 07:05:17 GMT

They call this an eco-experience. But a Karkloof Canopy Tour on the Midlands Meander in KwaZulu Natal is more than that. This is adventure. This is adrenalin. This is like your first time on a red or a black ski slope. Youre thinking, This is too fast. This is too dangerous. Im gonna die.

Sep 2, Sublime Drakensberg Experience: The Drakensberg Boys' Choir

Sat, 02 Sep 2006 06:52:11 GMT

Can you think of anything more sublime than crisp, mountain air, majestic mountains, azure skies and natural beauty as far as the eye can see, complemented by the pure tones of counter-tenor harmony?

Aug 31, DRAKENSBERG DIARIES: Tarring the Sani Pass! Good Grief!

Thu, 31 Aug 2006 16:16:05 GMT

The great and the good have decided that tourism is to be one of the key drivers of the South African economy. More tourists will make us all richer. So obviously weve got to improve access to our Drakensberg wilderness. Right? Well heres one grumpy old man whos not too delighted. Where and what is the Sani Pass? Its in the southern Drakensberg. Its one of the highest passes in southern Africa and its the only road offering vehicular access from KwaZulu Natal to the mountain kingdom of Lesotho. Admittedly, its not much of a road. In fact without a 4-wheel drive, youre not allowed to enter the pass. And now its to be tarred by 2009. Starting next month. Sani Pass was originally a mule route over the mountains until, in 1955, David Alexander and friends began constructing a road for their Land Rovers, so they could create a trade route between KwaZulu Natal and Lesotho. So the Mokhotlong Mountain Transport Company was created, and the Pass which it made famous. A simple inn was built at the top to give shelter to travellers. You get warm beds, good food and the highest pub in southern Africa. Just as well. You can be snowed in for days on end.

Why tar it? The idea is greatly favoured by the Lesotho 4x4 taximen and other traders. Its also thought that improving access will bring more tourists, more hotels, more jobs and all the rest of it. Maybe. But. The Sani Pass is like the rest of the Drakensberg a pristine mountain wilderness. And its pristine precisely because its inaccessible. And remote. And the only people youre going to meet are like-minded spirits, whove taken the trouble to get there. Good grief, its only in the last few years that the area has been properly mapped. Some of the peaks havent even been named, far less climbed. People go there because theyre trying to escape the traffic, the hubbub, mall-brats and their cell phones. They want more than a break. They want redemption. In a wilderness. Not tarred roads. Am I just a grumpy old man?

Jul 4, Drakensberg | Midlands Meander Parties and Weddings

Tue, 04 Jul 2006 08:12:57 GMT

Drakensberg | Midlands Meander venue for small parties and weddings.